I have found one adhesive that will stick to the kind of plastic that eyeglasses frames are made of. My glasses are over twenty years old, and they snapped right at the hinge; I’m wearing them now, and the bond is still working.
Things You’ll Need:
1: THE GLUE: “JB Weld” epoxy
2: Shrink tubing (for electronic use)
3: little, tiny screwdriver
4: Q-tips, alcohol
6: good clampage (I used a fly tying vice)
7: Time (to cure and set–very important!)
1 Use the tiny screwdriver to disassemble broken parts.
2 Carefully clean the broken surfaces with a Q-tip and alcohol. Try to work only the broken surfaces, the alcohol may frost the surrounding plastic.
3 Be sure to get shrink tubing of the proper diameter. It’s available in a variety of colors, you can buy a color to most closely match your frame color. Cut a one inch length, and slide it over the temple end. Do this now, because once it’s glued, it won’t go on.
4 Read the instructions on the JB Weld carefully; they will give you information about the curing time, mixing, applying, and other useful applications. Mix a SMALL amount on a piece of scrap paper, about the size of a nickel will be more than enough. Let it stand for 10-15 minutes (see instructions in package).
5 Use a toothpick to apply the epoxy to both surfaces–sparingly. ONLY enough to coat both broken surfaces, about the amount that sticks to the end of the toothpick will be enough for both sides.
6 Let this stand for a few minutes, the epoxy will remain goo-ey for awhile; then put both halves together, to fit as exactly as you can. squish out the excess, and wipe it with a Q-tip, or the end of a paper match will do as well.
7 Slide the shrink tubing piece over the bond, and apply heat to shrink it down. I used the burner on my stove, BUT SEVERAL INCHES ABOVE THE FLAME! (see “warnings”!)
8 BRACE the fitted pieces. As I mentioned, a fly-tying vice works great, a cheapie one can be found at a variety store (like the 99 Cent Store, a Yellow Front, or a military surplus store). Once your work is glued, it can’t move for several hours. I make my repair in the evening, so it can stand overnight, but the manufacturer recommends 24 to 72 hours.
9 DO NOT DISTURB!!–Leave it for a minimum of overnight; twenty four hours is better, but seventy two hours is best.
Tips & Warnings
Curing time is most important! Epoxy takes a long time to set up, and any movement in that time can break the bond, allow air into it, and it will be weak.
If you put the shrink tubing too close to your heat source, it will burn the plastic frames! You will get distortion, blistering, and you will destroy the shrink tubing! GENTLY heat the tubing, as you would toast a marshmallow to get it golden brown.
This repair will last a long time, although it’s not forever. The last time my repair gave ‘way, the shrink tubing still held the pieces for three days, until I could re-repair them again!.